Ming Tsai has dimples and a voice as soothing as the toasted coconut ice cream served at his Wellesley, MA restaurant, Blue Ginger. While I realize that any follower of his TV show, Simply Ming, has probably noticed his on-screen charm, I had the opportunity of confirming the chef’s pleasant demeanor in person last night.

My boyfriend deserves all the credit for first spotting Ming as we eagerly awaited to be seated. From that point on, I assumed the role of voracious observer — or, put more simply, stalker. This proved to be a fairly simple task. Ming was a continuous presence in the open kitchen and in the dining room, guiding his diligent chefs, taking orders, delivering meals, and sitting with customers to chat.

The first time he scurried past me, I stared at him guppy-eyed and grinning until he winked and returned the smile. (Close-up of the dimples.)

“Ming just smiled at me!” I gushed to my mother via text message.
“Keep your cool,” she rightfully answered.

I tried my best to follow her instructions throughout the night, but was rather unsuccessful. (Although no restraining order was filed, which might be viewed as a small triumph.) The East-West fusion food and drinks only compounded my love for Ming. I started with a margarita ($15) — guess I’m not a cheap date. The cocktail was pricey, but mixed just the way I like it — extremely tart, with only the faintest taste of alcohol (…not an easy one, either).

For my entree, I ordered the Teriyaki-Glazed Crispy Skin Salmon with Yuzu-Chili Sauce ($29). A hearty, pink block of fish was mounted atop a biscuit-sized mound of pan-fried noodles and stir-fried vegetables. The tangy, modestly spicy yuzu-chili sauce encircled the meal and justified the absence of salt and pepper shakers from the tables. The menu description was accurate. The seasoned skin had a satisfying crunch, which was followed by a thick, tender bed of juicy fish. All meat and fish dishes are prepared with a touch of cool rawness at the centers, which enhanced the freshness and flavor of each plate. The wisps of noodles mimicked the texture of the salmon — crisp on the outside, hot and soft on the inside.

For dessert, we shared the Sesame Macadamia Caramel Nut Tart ($12). A layer of sticky, caramelized macadamia nuts coated an interior of yellow, spongy cake. Cool and mild toasted coconut ice cream topped the tart, while drizzled fudge and rum-infused caramel surrounded the dish to add decadence and syrupy sweetness.

To top off this incredible dinner, we were granted the privilege of talking to Ming while he signed two Simply Ming cookbooks for our parents. For such a talented chef, he was extremely personable and unpretentious. I was also sufficiently less awkward than I was at the beginning of the night (which I will attribute to the barrel of food now lining my stomach, making fidgeting and jumping for joy a less feasible task.)

Unfortunately, all pictures of the food are stowed away on my cell phone, which awaits a trusty USB cable. Perhaps it was convenient that I forgot to tote along my camera. I would have further revealed my lack of social graces by snapping numerous conspicuous photos of Ming Tsai on the job.

Blue Ginger
583 Washington St.
Wellesley, MA 02482
781.283.5790

Price Rating: $$$-$$$$

It’s probably a poor decision to eat steaming broth and noodles on a day so sweltering that your own breath barely permeates the air’s thickness. Walking through New York last weekend summoned a clear picture of what it must feel like to roast in the seventh circle of Hell. The temperature accumulated to nearly 100 degrees each day, and I dropped to my knees and worshiped my air conditioning whenever I returned home.

Needless to say, I was pretty apprehensive about eating lunch at Ippudo, the new ramen place on 4th Ave., on Saturday. I dithered about the decision until I reached the wood paneling surrounding the restaurant’s door — should I risk melting my inner organs for a good meal, or just settle for a cold salad (preferably with ample amounts of tomato and avocado…)? I went with the more exciting option and firmly stepped into Ippudo.

The staff also seemed pleased with my decision, as I was greeted by every worker with a high-pitched “irasshaimase!” The restaurant is shaped like a U, and the visible kitchens line the perimeter. The wood paneling also decorates some of the walls on the interior, with red ornamentation to add a splash of color. Long wooden tables populate the center of the room, where diners communally wipe sweat from their brows as they hunch over porcelain bowls. White booths surrounded by glass petitions accommodate larger groups. The decor at Ippudo is trendier than the no-frills atmosphere at Ramen Setagaya, which suggests that their take on the Japanese dish is less traditional and more expensive than the East Village enclave.

I ordered the original recipe, the Shiomaru moto ramen ($13), so that I could compare it with the Shio ramen ($9.50) at Setagaya. The bowl was enormous and clouded by a rising waft of meaty steam. While Setagaya’s chewy noodles make its ramen unique, Ippudo’s pork-based broth is its claim to fame. The focus directed toward the cafe au lait-hued liquid is certainly apparent. It tastes creamy and smooth, and it gently slides from the spoon to your throat like a bead of rainwater down a glass window. Pork is completely submerged in the soup, and its absorption of the broth makes it tender and flaky. Other than a few crisp pieces of floating cabbage and the pile of noodles (which are not as good as Setagaya’s), the broth is relatively barren in garnishing. It doesn’t need it.

After eating half of the soup, I began to sweat and the thought of returning to the fiery underworld of the outdoors filled me with some trepidation. Even if my innards did somewhat resemble the consistency of the meal I had just consumed, the porky soup and chewy noodles were well-worth the heatstroke.

Ippudo
65 4th Ave. (b/w 9th and 10th)
New York, NY 10003
212.388.0088

Price Rating: $$

In my last cupcake post, I played the role of sluggish cupcake consumer. Other than shuffling down the sidewalk with a spring in my step that only cupcakes can induce, there was no physical effort put forth toward satisfying my sweet tooth. (Besides eating, which is actually like an Olympic event for me. I focus only on the food sitting before me and eat it with conviction and intensity, ignoring my surroundings and failing to participate in table talk.) Instead, I took advantage of the fruit (or cakes) of the labor of others who have more talent and patience than myself — like the dedicated bakers at Kickass Cupcakes.

This time, I took more initiative and attempted to bake the cupcakes myself, rather than relying on the expertise of the pros. Well, partly — my boyfriend nabbed the Red Velvet Cake and Cream Cheese Icing recipes from Allysa Torey’s More from Magnolia cookbook. (She’s the saint who founded Magnolia Bakery.) The cake recipe also functions for cupcakes.

The cupcakes were vibrant in color (we had to make 2 trips to the food store in order to fulfill the red food coloring quota) and very tasty. The icing was definitely my favorite part. Although the recipe suggests Creamy Vanilla Frosting, we decided to stir up the cream cheese alternative for a more traditional red velvet cupcake. It was smooth and creamy, yet still packed a fair amount of sweetness to enhance the subtle cocoa taste of the cake.

The cake part was decidedly less moist and fluffy than it is when eaten in-house at Magnolia. It wasn’t too dry or firm, but an outer layer of a slightly tougher consistency encased the dense, cakey inside. I think it’s impossible to emulate the buttery, pillow-like cupcake bottoms of Magnolia and Billy’s Bakery.

Even though I should probably just leave the pre-consumption part of the process to the experts, I would definitely make this recipe again. Not only are the cupcakes tasty and filling, but the excessive amount of crimson food coloring stains your hands blood-red and makes you feel like Chuck Norris after a heated streetfight.

Recipe for Red Velvet Cake, modified for cupcakes (from More from Magnolia by Allysa Torey)
3 1/3 cups cake flour (not self-rising)
3/4 cup unsalted butter
2 1/4 cups sugar
3 large eggs room temperature
6 tbsp red food coloring
3 tbsp unsweetened cocoa
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1 1/2 tsp cider vinegar
1 1/2 tsp baking soda

Cream Cheese Icing (also from More from Magnolia)
1 lb cream cheese, softened and cut into small pieces
6 tbsp unsalted butter, softened and cut into small pieces
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
5 cups sifted confectioners sugar

Cupcakes:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Fill cupcake trays with cupcake liners. In a small bowl, sift cake flour and set aside. In a large bowl, on the medium speed of an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar until very light and fluffy (about 5 min.). Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. In a small bowl, whisk together the red food coloring, cocoa, and vanilla. Add to the batter and beat well.

In a measuring cup, stir the salt into the buttermilk. Add to the batter in 3 parts, alternating with the flour. With each addition, beat until the ingredients are incorporated, but do not overbeat.

In a small bowl, stir together the vinegar and baking soda. Add to the batter and mix well. Using a rubber spatula scrape the batter from the sides of the bowl, making sure the ingredients are well-blended and the batter is smooth.

Divide the batter among the prepared pans. Bake for 20-23 minutes, or until a cake tester emerges clean from the center of the cupcakes. Remove from the pans and cool completely on a wire rack. When the cakes are cool, spread the frosting across the tops.

Icing:
In a large bowl, on the medium speed of an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the vanilla and beat well. Gradually add the sugar, one cup at a time, beating continuously until smooth and creamy. Cover and refrigerate icing for 2-3 hours, but no longer, to thicken before using.