* You are viewing the archive for December, 2009

Regurge: Sliced Pork Belly Noodle Soup from M Noodle Shop


I’d had my eye on the newly-opened M Noodle Shop for a while and decided I was in the mood for something warm and soupy for dinner tonight. They deliver, but I’m cheap and takeout means you’re off the hook when it comes to doling out the tip dollars. Before I left, I conducted some perfunctory Yelp and Menu Pages research to get an idea of the tasty dishes and those that should be avoided. I tend to take yelp (or any other review site, for that matter) comments with a grain of salt — the message-leavers seem to be frustrated, pretentious food writer wannabes who complain readily and praise reluctantly.

I hate to admit it, but the reviews were pretty spot on. The majority of yelpers designated the broth as greasy and bland and the noodles lackluster. Despite the diatribes, I tenaciously clung to the lone comments which bestowed accolades upon the place. The sole review on Menu Pages gushed over the sliced pork belly noodle soup, so that’s what I ordered (plus a $1 extra fried egg).
What a disappointment. My feelings of optimism, reinforced by those of the doe-eyed Menu Pages reviewer, became hardened like the overcooked egg yolk pictured above. The noodles, a pallid, doughy mass which severed with the caress of a plastic spoon and adopted the spherical formation of the takeout container, were boiled for way too long. The broth was mediocre, not sweet (which is a plus — I hate sweet broth), but nothing more than your average, run-of-the-mill wonton soup broth. I was hoping the pork flavor would somehow be integrated into the broth with a little unexpected heat, but alas. No go. The final letdown was the pork. An anemic beige color, it was tough and flavorless.

I’m glad I got this over with. It’s a bit of a hike from my apartment and definitely not worth the trudge in the cold. I’ll concede this one to the angry yelpers. I’m not irate enough to publicize my disappointment on a food website that people actually read, but I will try to heed their words of warning next time.

Splurge: Shepherd’s Pie at Houndstooth Pub


This may be a sign of deep-seated obsession, but I tend to associate all establishments (whether relevant or not) with a specific food memory. Come to think of it, giant images of food, rather than decor, size, exterior, or lighting, are evoked when I envision a certain location. Take Dunkin’ Donuts, for example. My mind produces a pumpkin-infused latte and breakfast wrap stuffed with artificial egg and melted cheese, not pink and orange lettering and an interminable a.m. queue. Instead of the wide screens and cushioned red seats synonymous with movie theaters, I see a large bucket of popcorn that I must hold at arm’s length so that its greasy bottom doesn’t stain my pants.

Houndstooth Pub is no exception. It conjures juicy, ground sirloin and lamb topped by browned and crackled mashed potatoes. Since I ordered the shepherd’s pie there at a lunch with my coworkers, it’s all I can think about when I pass the place. I had never actually eaten shepherd’s pie before (though those who are familiar with my spud affinity have always recommended I try it), but I was pretty sure Houndstooth served it right.
My dad was in the city tonight for a Knicks game, so I suggested we eat there beforehand (picture of meat + potatoes beginning to appear). I debated ordering the French onion soup and heirloom tomato salad for about 30 seconds, slapped myself for producing such blasphemous thoughts, and ordered correctly.
The lamb and sirloin mixture is studded with peas and carrot hunks and softened by its mashed potato roof and congealed juices. A crisp, bubbling skin forms atop the potatoes, which are textured and creamy once you enter the deeper layers. I do confess to reaching for the salt shaker 2 times to add a little extra seasoning, but besides that the meal is pure, piping hot bliss. Not one bite is dry.
The best part is that I somehow managed to summon the benevolent goddess of will power, so I have half for lunch tomorrow! This also means that I will now associate my office lunchroom with the delicious pie, which may result in a much less productive work day…

Splurge: Sesame Noodle at Lantern

I’m really terrible at being adventurous when it comes to menus. Once I find a dish I like, I hold onto it like grim death (in the words of a very wise and horse-faced comedian). At Thai restaurants, I always get something noodley because a.) I absolutely can’t resist carbs, and b.) as much as I try, I really don’t enjoy the flavor of curry. Pad See Ew and Pad Woon Sen both combine eggs and green Asian vegetables (usually Chinese broccoli or bok choy) atop broad, chewy noodles or skinny, transparent noodles, respectively. I always order one or the other, depending on the menu’s options.

I think I’ve found my new favorite Thai noodle dish. At a recent dinner party at Lantern in Gramercy, I abandoned my aforementioned menu habits and went for the Sesame Noodle (how exotic!) with beef. After repeatedly munching on Pad See Ew (which the Sesame Noodle more closely resembled), it’s pretty difficult to discern drastic inconsistencies among the city’s various renditions of the dish. That said, Lantern’s was a clear standout.
The flat, chewy noodles (similar to Chinese chow fun) were the thinnest, most delicate ribbons I have ever encountered. When greeted by my fork, the edges would lightly flake and become integrated with the surrounding egg and beef chunks. The menu described the dish as having a “light sesame flavor”, which it most certainly possessed. The beef should have been softer, and I think the overall flavor could have been slightly more daring — some heat and refreshing ginger would have done the trick. Also, I was pretty surprised that there were no fresh sesame seeds garnishing the web of noodles.
I can’t wait to go back and sample the Green Tea Noodles, which if I remember correctly are spinach-flavored strands topped with veggies and beef. The dish was a hot commodity at the party — I think 4 out of 10 people ordered it. I will not, however, be ordering any alcky. I went on a curse-spewing rampage when I discovered that cocktails were $10-11 a pop.

Super Splurge: Dinner at Smith and Wollensky


A recent bout of illness, which occurred most inconveniently on the Union Square L train platform during morning rush hour, has curbed my usual gluttonous eating habits this week. As a result, updating my blog has suffered (along with my overly acidic stomach).

By the time this past Thursday rolled around, I had decidedly rejected eating like a weight-conscious sorority girl with self-esteem problems. Armed with a $100 gift card, a trusty package of Prilosec, and a conviction that red meat has negative effects only on the heart, I made a dinner reservation for 2 at Smith & Wollensky.
My favorite cut of steak is Porterhouse, which Smith & Wollensky unfortunately only serves as a steak for two-sized portion. (This was a no-go as my boyfriend orders his steaks medium, while I prefer mine still bloody and mooing.) I decided on the prime rib, with sides of mashed potatoes and creamed spinach.
The steak was a thing of beauty. Huge (the waiter attempted to serve it to my boyfriend, then laughed sheepishly when he discovered that I was the hungry culprit), encased by tenderizing tubes of fat, and the pinkish color assumed by tomato soup when combined with milk, the cut screamed “dig right in!” from its au jus shelter. Eating steak like this is almost a cannibalistic endeavor. When a steak is brought from kitchen to table, heads turn and conversations cease as restaurant patrons eye each plate, compare it to their own, and decide what to order if they haven’t already done so. Each cut stands alone, untainted by sides of french fried potatoes or steamed asparagus, on a simple white plate. Here, its individual personality (unyielding? tender?) and physical attributes (red? fatty?) can be clearly evaluated by the diner before he or she embarks on the spiritual process of consumption.
I ordered my prime rib medium rare, which allows the delicious, natural flavor of the meat to expose itself. Each bite was juicy, tender, and lightly salty when dipped in the thin gravy. Though I love prime rib, I think I’ll try a less fatty cut next time. Nearly half the steak consists of fat, which reduces the edible quantity and makes cutting a tiresome task.
The sides were pretty yummy too. The creamed spinach was emerald green, creamy, and sometimes crunchy. The mashed potatoes were buttery, though the texture could have been a bit less dense.
We decided to forego dessert as we were too stuffed to speak to each other (a wise choice, considering we were both incapacitated throughout the remainder of the evening). My stomach did survive the event, though not without repercussions. I had a second subway scare the next morning and nearly had to bail at Lorimer St. on my way to work. Hopefully I will have a speedy recovery so I can revert to my fried food and oversized portion tendencies!

Regurge: Lunch and Macarons from Macaron Cafe

This title may be a little harsh, because my lunch + dessert from Macaron Cafe wasn’t nearly as stomach-churning as the restaurant’s gimmicky, questionably gay (or maybe just excessively European?) male greeter/waiter of sorts. But it was a total letdown, both taste and price-wise.

The cafe’s interior is blatantly feminine, accented with polka dots and all discernible shades of pink — hot, rosy, pale, salmon — you name it. Stereotypically French staples, like Nicoise salad, quiche Lorraine, and croque-monsieur, as well as a variety of sandwiches filled with gruyere, brie, or ham, are featured on the menu. The aforementioned Frenchman (who, for our purposes, shall hereafter be referred to as “Jacques”) was exaggerated in appearance, accent, and obnoxiousness. Cloaked in all black with a red-checked scarf flung “effortlessly” around his neck (he probably spends hours setting it in place each morning, along with his gelled hair and manufactured scowl), Jacques greets all customers at the door and proceeds to stand eerily close to them with a clipboard.

“Am I supposed to order to you, or…?” I asked Jacques, dreading his response.
“Yezzzz. Why do you theenk I am ztanding ‘eere wiz zees cleepboarrrrrd?!” he replied smugly.
Is it just me, or are greeters supposed to make diners feel welcome and comfortable, not slimy and violated?

I ordered the Thursday special, the endive & ham de Paris, and my friend ordered the roast beef sandwich. We also picked up a little box of 6 macarons to taste for dessert. I thought I had gotten a sandwich, but to my surprise it was some bizarre, wet, wannabe artichoke wrapped in tough ham and swimming in a gloppy mixture of melted gruyere and lumpy bechamel sauce. The moisture from the ham and endive produced an unwanted fluid film atop the cheese, watering down the dish.

The roast beef sandwich was the opposite of my meal — overly dry and bland, the meat carelessly plopped in the center.

And finally, the pièce de résistance (not really): the macarons. All in all, they weren’t terrible, but the pastry was dense and gummy; the creme-filled interiors too sweet and predictable. Here they are, flavor by flavor:

Lemon, which was saccharine rather than lightly tart,

apple cinnamon, which tasted a lot like Apple Jack cereal (aka seriously lacking in spicy cinnamon),

espresso, my favorite of the bunch, due to its biting, real coffee flavor (finally one which wasn’t too sweet!),

wedding almonds, which oozed of marzipan overkill,

raspberry, which was utterly flavorless,

and honey-lavender, which tasted like a mixture of prickly menthol and simple syrup.

Macaron Cafe is all about the allure. It’s colorful, cutesy, and kitschy, but don’t be charmed by the brightly colored walls and cookies. The taste just doesn’t live up to the aesthetic.

Regurge: Paula Deen’s Cheesy Banana Ham Casserole

Yep, you read that recipe correctly. Cheese, banana, ham…AND a list of other ingredients which are perfectly innocuous and delicious until combined to form this cracked out version of a savory/sweet bread pudding. Here they are (read at your own risk):

* Butter
* 12 slices white bread
* 8 large slices deli ham
* 4 bananas, sliced on the bias
* 2 cups shredded Cheddar
* 2 cups crushed potato chips
* 6 slices cooked and crumbled bacon
* 4 large eggs
* 1 cup milk
* 1 cup cream
* Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper

the casserole before it went in the oven

Before those who attended the party raise their fists in anger at the “regurge” designation, note that the title was based mainly on the ingredients and their noxious effect on my digestive tract, central nervous system, and overall self-worth. The casserole was, to our surprise, pretty tasty (in an “I’m going to be self-deprecating for the next two weeks because I ate this” sorta way).
The fact that no two bites tasted the same was simultaneously intriguing and off-putting. On the one hand, the sweet-then-salty dichotomy was refreshing: plunge your fork into a dense chunk and you may taste ham coated in banana essence (those bites I could have done without). Stab another and you’ll get bread that is soggy from heavy cream saturation. On the flip side, I think the dish would have worked better if the contrasting flavors formed a more cohesive, balanced unit (banana and bacon subtly complimenting each other in one bite rather than overpowering the tastebuds in mutually exclusive mouthfuls).
ready for eatin’
I could definitely see where Paula was going with this recipe, low brow as it may be. The bubbly, baked cheese and bacon pieces added crunch and saltiness; the banana sweetened anything with which it came into contact; and the heavy cream-and-butter-soaked layers enhanced the soppy texture synonymous with bread pudding. Though many bites I took were less than satisfying (pretty much anything the saccharine banana had encountered), I kept going back for more. I even went back for portion #2.

close-up
All in all, I’d like to say that this was the most disgusting thing I’ve ever eaten. But artery-clogging and inharmonious as the ingredients may be, I can’t say I didn’t enjoy Paula Deen’s concoction. If my friend decides to make “cook a cheesy banana ham casserole” an annual event as proposed by the party’s satisfied patrons, I’ll be there (fork, camera, and elastic-waisted pants in tow).

Mostly Splurge: Shio Ramon from Menkui Tei


Ramen is one of my favorite foods. I could never really pinpoint why in the past (most people immediately write it off as being too salty), but Serious Eats blog has led me to enlightenment. I recently registered as a member, and one of the personal profile fields requires that you list your favorite things to eat. After evaluating my list (ramen, matzoh ball soup, pastrami on rye at Katz’s, bagels and lox from Russ & Daughters) 2 things became apparent. 1. I’m Jewish, and 2. I like foods that are loaded with sodium and carbs (my poor metabolism…). So it seems ramen contains all the elements of my ideal meal — chewy noodles, salty broth, and fat-encased pork.
I’ve been to Menkui Tei three or four times, and I’m always a little disappointed by my meal. The appeal is the price. It’s $8 for the most basic ramen, which is the cheapest you can get in town (Setagaya’s $9.50, Ippudo is $13). The menu touts more ramen options than its competitors. When it comes to quality of ingredients and overall taste, Menkui Tei always falls short. The noodles are definitely the best part. A tangled web of waves, not one strand is tenuous. There’s a slight sweetness to the broth that offsets the flavor of the dish, and after sampling my friends’ soups I noticed the lack of variety. Though the menu lists different broth flavors (salt, soy sauce, garlic, pork bone), they all taste questionably similar. Menkui Tei’s ramen contains the most anemic, grayish looking pork slabs I’ve ever seen. The meat should crumble and flake once encountered by chopsticks, but these slices are tough and impossible to cut (unless teeth are employed in the process.)
Despite all my bitchin’, I’m sure I’ll be back. Unlike the above-mentioned ramen places in the city, Menkui Tei does seem to cater to the youts (could be its dangerously close proximity to NYU, or it could be the $16 pitcher and fire wings deal). And there really is no beating the price, as long as you keep in mind that you get what you pay for.

Snack Splurge: Meltykiss

My uncle broke out these deceptively erotic-sounding Japanese candies on Thanksgiving (he lives and works in Vietnam for a good chunk of the year). Amidst the conventional dessert lineup of pumpkin trifle and pecan and apple pies, these babies were definite social misfits (we all pointed and laughed at them, like proper hecklers should). Of course I had to try one, though I was a little grossed out by the name. Probably because my rendition of a “meltykiss” involves unwelcome lip-to-cheek contact with an aunt whose mouth produces an inordinate amount of saliva.

There he is, in all his anti-climactic, cube-shaped glory. Nothing but an unassuming truffle candy. The meltykiss was actually quite tasty, though. Like the English description on the box denotes, the chocolate is extremely creamy and soft once you get a couple of good chews in. I’d take Meltykiss any day over the unforgiving, waxy version from Hershey’s. If I can ever say the name with a straight face, that is.

Splurge: Apricot Ginger Sherbet from NYC Icy


I recently moved from Kensington to Williamsburg (real original, I know), a transition which significantly boosted my dining out and delivery options. Kensington’s few decent eating and drinking establishments are neatly contained on a modest strip of Cortelyou Rd., while Williamsburg’s streets are brimming with trendy restaurants and dive bars. Though I’m knee-deep in banh mi enclaves and Thai hole-in-the-walls, the one thing I do miss about my old stomping grounds (besides the ENORMOUS ShopRite on Avenue I, of course) is NYC Icy.

This Italian ice and sherbet shop is a straggler — its exotic flavors (i.e. mango basil and Mexican chocolate) appeal to a younger, more adventurous crowd, yet it remains isolated from its hip Cortelyou counterparts. The menu is divided into two types of cold treats: ices (sans leche) or sherbet (con leche). I was a real sucker for the apricot ginger sherbet. A pale peach color, the dessert is flecked with hunks of crystallized ginger and fresh apricots. The apricot is tangy, and the refreshing ginger always manages to clear the old sinuses a bit. Sometimes I’d go REAL crazy and pair it with the Mexican chocolate, a sherbet with some serious cajones. It’s infused with chile, which prickles the tongue and gives you a healthy dose of the chills (perfect for summer!). The one thing that NYC Icy can improve upon is the texture of the sherbet. The consistency is resilient and putty-like, making spoon insertion a cumbersome task.