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Juicy Lucy Burger at Whitmans and Iced Coffee Float at Goods

As evidenced by my Serbian stuffed burgers post, I really like the idea of cheese as burger entrails rather than burger beanie. Even though you’re probably consuming the same amount of dairy and meat either way, there’s something so satisfyingly savage about biting into a patty and encountering oozing, orange gobs.  Whitmans in the East Village offers such a rugged experience with its Minneapolis-based Juicy Lucy burger.  The grass-fed beef is encased by thick layers of char (a little less blackening would have been preferable) and a squishy, seed-studded bun. I liked the old school bun choice because it was able to house its corpulent tenant with ease.  Like a tootsie pop, three bites led me to the core — which was gushing with a pliant but melty pool of spicy cheese.  Fresh new pickles and caramelized onions also garnished the burger for added tang, sweetness, and freshness. I actually would have liked a little more of where that came from.

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Traif in Williamsburg

I like the esoteric playfulness behind Traif, the new pork-centric, small plates-only eatery situated near the entrance to the Williamsburg Bridge in Brooklyn. Despite its stone’s throw proximity to the neighborhood’s Hasidic enclave, it seems the restaurant’s Semitic inside joke is still fairly exclusionary — our waitress’s wide blue eyes, fair hair, and button nose were a pretty clear indication that she’d never been hoisted in a rickety chair in her sweet, Midwestern life.  And from the looks of the other apple pie faces crowding the establishment, bacon’s current hipness in the foodie world, rather than its blasphemous role in the Kosher one, is Traif’s primary lure.

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People’s Pops and Mesa Coyoacan

Today’s weather did not make the long-holiday-weekend-to-work transition any smoother. This morning’s stifling heat made me uncharacteristically angry at a cute baby who mistook my turquoise headphones for playthings.  I’m usually angry during my morning commute to work, though this indignation is almost never directed at babies.

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Cinnamon Hot Chocolate at Cocoa Bar

After an IKEA furniture assembly mishap, I headed over to Tea Lounge to relax and read over a pot of decaf. That was a no-go; the bearded dudes setting up saxophones, violins, and microphones sent me straight for the door. The next closest cafe I could think of was Cocoa Bar, a handful of blocks south on 7th Ave. There were two empty suede couches in the front of the store (cha-ching), so I ordered a chocolate chip cookie and cinnamon hot chocolate to wash it down.

Both were disappointing — I took two bites/sips and left the rest over, which is something I NEVER do. (I once picked a dead fly out of a cup of Italian ice and continued to eat my dessert. I’ve got a pretty high threshold when it comes to food.) The cocoa wasn’t really a liquid.  The consistency was viscous, its burnt taste and chalky texture lingering on my tongue long after I had taken a swig. The cookie was no different from those available at Starbucks and Guy & Gallard. Each leaden bite separated into dry, bland crumbs.

Williamsburg Brunch Deathmatch: The Popular Harefield Road Vs. The Underdog Il Passatore

For some ungodly reason I was awake at 10 a.m. this past Saturday. The best way to take advantage of such a predicament is NOT to hang the contents of the bag of clean laundry from which you’ve been fishing for underpants for the past week (true story), but to get brunch at a local restaurant that uncomfortably overflows with your fellow sleepyheads come 12 p.m. Harefield Road on Metropolitan Ave. in Williamsburg is such a place — the sidewalk crowds make it impossible even to inquire about the estimated wait on Sunday afternoons. Saturday at 10:30 a.m., however, is a whole ‘nother story. We waltzed right in.

For $12, you get coffee or tea, an alcoholic morning beverage (mimosa or bloody Mary, which in my case translates to “slight agita or laying in a pool of my own bile”), and a meal. I’m no less hypocritical than those 40-year old bitches who order their tall latte with the contrasting soy milk and whipped cream combo. I opted for the omelette, which I requested to be egg-white only and stuffed with mushrooms, tomatoes, and CHEDDAR. Always gotta have a balance.
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Splurge: Bourbon-Nutella Milkshakes at Brooklyn Bowl

These milkshakes are good. So good that a mere whiff of their deep chocolatey fragrance, rather than the usual required nipple show-and-tell, scored me a shiny set of Mardi Gras beads off some babbling, drunken rube within 5 seconds. So good that they (nearly) alleviated the pain and embarrassment of wiping out twice on an ice-covered Bedford Avenue in front of bang-twirling hipsters.
My roommate Caitlin needed a partner-in-crime to escort her to Brooklyn Bowl last Tuesday, where she was covering a show for her music blog. As soon as I heard about said bourbon-nutella milkshakes, I knew I was the girl for the job. Apparently you’re not supposed to order these $13 suckers at the bar, but the bartender made a little exception for us (perhaps she caught a glimpse of the gravel permanently stuck in my palm from the falls and felt sorry for us).
These were even more incredible than I thought they would be. The bourbon worked perfectly in the drink — it was definitely discernible and added an almost coconutty flavor rather than a bitter one. The shakes tasted like rich brownie batter infused with tiny but crispy flecks of hazelnut. I think drinking more than one of these in a night would send you into a diabetic coma, so I’d resist the urge to order two (though you’ll most certainly be tempted to do so).

Not All They’re Cracked Up to Be: Pierogies from Greenpoint’s Lomzynianka



Maybe I should have gotten ‘em fried like Robyn did, but these doughy little specimen just didn’t make the splurge cut for me. Two of my coworkers and I went to Greenpoint’s most highly rated Polish establishment, Lomzynianka (don’t ask me to verbally pronounce that for you), last Monday night for pierogies. The restaurant’s cozy and quiet interior is embellished with exposed brick, streamers (either there’s some Polish holiday I don’t know about or the owners are just festive year round), and protruding moose heads. “You feel like you’re eating dinner at someone’s house,” my coworker Angie astutely observed.

The 3 of us ordered the 3 different stuffing options (well, there’s also farmer’s cheese, but that didn’t really sound appetizing to any of us): Angie had sauer kraut and mushroom, Jessica got the meat, and I ordered potato and cheese. We all traded pierogi for pierogi like an elementary school lunch room. Except thank God there were no Capri Suns. I still don’t understand how to poke the damn straw in that unaccommodating little hole. (That’s what he said?)
potato and cheese pierogies
sauer kraut and mushroom pierogies
meat pierogies
Each pierogi was tasty enough — super thick and chewy dough encasements garnished haphazardly with caramelized onions and a dollop of sour cream — but the stuffed interiors weren’t all that flavorful. The sauer kraut and mushroom was a little too sweet for me, and the potato and cheese was comforting but not tangy enough. I think my favorite was the meat. It was soft and had the most flavor of the three contenders.
I definitely want to go back and try some of the dishes that my more knowledgeable Polish neighbors were ordering — the Polish plate, for one. It contains a sampling of pierogies, bigos, kielbasa, stuffed cabbage, and mashed potatoes. And it’s hella cheap — only about $6 for all that! Actually, that’s a huge plus at Lomzynianka. You can get pretty full for about $5 (that’s how much a plate of 7 or 8 pierogies costs).

Regurge: Sliced Pork Belly Noodle Soup from M Noodle Shop


I’d had my eye on the newly-opened M Noodle Shop for a while and decided I was in the mood for something warm and soupy for dinner tonight. They deliver, but I’m cheap and takeout means you’re off the hook when it comes to doling out the tip dollars. Before I left, I conducted some perfunctory Yelp and Menu Pages research to get an idea of the tasty dishes and those that should be avoided. I tend to take yelp (or any other review site, for that matter) comments with a grain of salt — the message-leavers seem to be frustrated, pretentious food writer wannabes who complain readily and praise reluctantly.

I hate to admit it, but the reviews were pretty spot on. The majority of yelpers designated the broth as greasy and bland and the noodles lackluster. Despite the diatribes, I tenaciously clung to the lone comments which bestowed accolades upon the place. The sole review on Menu Pages gushed over the sliced pork belly noodle soup, so that’s what I ordered (plus a $1 extra fried egg).
What a disappointment. My feelings of optimism, reinforced by those of the doe-eyed Menu Pages reviewer, became hardened like the overcooked egg yolk pictured above. The noodles, a pallid, doughy mass which severed with the caress of a plastic spoon and adopted the spherical formation of the takeout container, were boiled for way too long. The broth was mediocre, not sweet (which is a plus — I hate sweet broth), but nothing more than your average, run-of-the-mill wonton soup broth. I was hoping the pork flavor would somehow be integrated into the broth with a little unexpected heat, but alas. No go. The final letdown was the pork. An anemic beige color, it was tough and flavorless.

I’m glad I got this over with. It’s a bit of a hike from my apartment and definitely not worth the trudge in the cold. I’ll concede this one to the angry yelpers. I’m not irate enough to publicize my disappointment on a food website that people actually read, but I will try to heed their words of warning next time.

Splurge: Apricot Ginger Sherbet from NYC Icy


I recently moved from Kensington to Williamsburg (real original, I know), a transition which significantly boosted my dining out and delivery options. Kensington’s few decent eating and drinking establishments are neatly contained on a modest strip of Cortelyou Rd., while Williamsburg’s streets are brimming with trendy restaurants and dive bars. Though I’m knee-deep in banh mi enclaves and Thai hole-in-the-walls, the one thing I do miss about my old stomping grounds (besides the ENORMOUS ShopRite on Avenue I, of course) is NYC Icy.

This Italian ice and sherbet shop is a straggler — its exotic flavors (i.e. mango basil and Mexican chocolate) appeal to a younger, more adventurous crowd, yet it remains isolated from its hip Cortelyou counterparts. The menu is divided into two types of cold treats: ices (sans leche) or sherbet (con leche). I was a real sucker for the apricot ginger sherbet. A pale peach color, the dessert is flecked with hunks of crystallized ginger and fresh apricots. The apricot is tangy, and the refreshing ginger always manages to clear the old sinuses a bit. Sometimes I’d go REAL crazy and pair it with the Mexican chocolate, a sherbet with some serious cajones. It’s infused with chile, which prickles the tongue and gives you a healthy dose of the chills (perfect for summer!). The one thing that NYC Icy can improve upon is the texture of the sherbet. The consistency is resilient and putty-like, making spoon insertion a cumbersome task.

$3.95 for a scoop?

Apologies for the miniscule pic.
A few days ago I ventured into the Wild Wild West to hunt down Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream Truck, a pilgrimage I’ve been meaning to make since the dawning of summer. Ben Van Leeuwen pampers his ice cream with more tender love ‘n care than your ninety-year-old widowed neighbor treats her tabbies. The ingredients are all super high quality, organic, and, well, pretentious-sounding. The chocolate, par exemplum, is scraped from the bittersweet gonads of the Patagonian cocoa beast…not quite, but it’s not that far a stretch from the truth. In actuality, Van Leeuwen uses 72% chocolate chips which are shaved ultra-thin and stored in uber-regulated temps to ensure sufficient in-mouth melting.

The verdict? I ordered the peppermint & chip, which was refreshingly minty rather than artificially sweet. The chocolate chips did melt in my mouth, but so would you if you were only .0000000000000002 centimeters wide. A scoop makes for a great snack if you’re in the mood for something sweet but don’t want to feel gorged. You’ll be paying $3.95, but look on the bright side: The ice cream transforms into solid gold once it’s digested, so you’ll actually be refunded by your own gilt excrement!

Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream Truck
SE corner of Prince & Greene St.
$ (although in ice cream terms, $$$)