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Juicy Lucy Burger at Whitmans and Iced Coffee Float at Goods

As evidenced by my Serbian stuffed burgers post, I really like the idea of cheese as burger entrails rather than burger beanie. Even though you’re probably consuming the same amount of dairy and meat either way, there’s something so satisfyingly savage about biting into a patty and encountering oozing, orange gobs.  Whitmans in the East Village offers such a rugged experience with its Minneapolis-based Juicy Lucy burger.  The grass-fed beef is encased by thick layers of char (a little less blackening would have been preferable) and a squishy, seed-studded bun. I liked the old school bun choice because it was able to house its corpulent tenant with ease.  Like a tootsie pop, three bites led me to the core — which was gushing with a pliant but melty pool of spicy cheese.  Fresh new pickles and caramelized onions also garnished the burger for added tang, sweetness, and freshness. I actually would have liked a little more of where that came from.

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Totale Pizza and Sundaes & Cones

Though its owners have enjoyed relatively considerable success in the restaurant biz, Totale Pizza still seems like the benevolent pizza underdog whose innocent yet manipulative puppy eyes command your praise and support.  Not only is it a little late to the wood-fired world of personalized Neapolitan pies (behind Motorino, Keste, Paulie Gee’s), but its barely-there existence on the flashy, seedy St. Marks strip and unlikely Fanny Brice-Nicky Arnstein of a management duo designate Totale as unassuming, if not a little peculiar. Perhaps it is this mystery (and a worthy mention in New York Magazine’s  ”Cheap Eats” guide of 2010) that draws twenty-somethings like myself, salt-and-pepper couples, and groups of tourists to its modest, black and white-tiled dining room.  After all, it’s not every day that a local ingredient, gourmet pie type shacks up with a man whose living is earned selling dollar slices to drunken coeds and babbling hobos.

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Summer Rolls and Brisket Pho at Pho Grand

After seeing Danny’s photos of the Vietnamese fare at Pho Grand, I’ve been determined to head over there to try the cutely packaged summer rolls and piping hot noodle dishes.  The restaurant’s sloping roof and wide wood paneling resembled that of a ski chalet more than it did a Chinatown hole-in-the-wall. Though instead of bunny slope babes in tight snow pants (a fashion phenomenon I never understood), there are surly, deadpan waitresses whose no-bullshit service gets you in and out of the place in 20 minutes. I’ll take business over bimbo any day, especially when it comes to mealtime.

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People’s Pops and Mesa Coyoacan

Today’s weather did not make the long-holiday-weekend-to-work transition any smoother. This morning’s stifling heat made me uncharacteristically angry at a cute baby who mistook my turquoise headphones for playthings.  I’m usually angry during my morning commute to work, though this indignation is almost never directed at babies.

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Broccoli Sub from No. 7 Sub

This week, I’ve actually been pretty glad that my bosses didn’t spring for leather desk chairs. I can feel the sweat creeping through my porous polo shirt and shorts (Bermuda shorts; I’m no office hoochie), but luckily the seat’s cushy upholstery won’t claim my sticky top layer of skin when I stand up. I do wish my superiors would jack up the A/C, though. Despite yesterday’s equally lethal heat and humidity, I decided to take a little 10+ block lunch excursion to No. 7 Sub. I’d been wanting to go since it opened and was especially enticed by the olive oil poached tuna and broccoli sandwiches.

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Regurge: Red Velvet Cupcakes from Sugar Sweet Sunshine

I used to live about 2 blocks from Sugar Sweet Sunshine, which was simultaneously glorious and dangerous. On my way home from the F train, sometimes I’d pop in for a racially homogenous white icing-on-white pastry cupcake (aka the “sunshine” according to the bakery’s official menu). The cake part isn’t as moist as Magnolia or Billy’s Bakery, but the super sweet, slightly gritty icing (my favorite part) makes Sugar Sweet Sunshine’s cupcakes a fierce rival of the aforementioned cupcake mills. And Sugar Sweet’s price always decided the competition for me — a cupcake is (or was) $1.50, while I believe the other two go for $2.50 or more a pop.
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NY Mag Restaurant Listings

My New York Magazine freelance pieces have finally been posted on their website! Read all about Shanghai Cafe and The Soup Spot.

Splurge in Taste, Regurge in Principle: Anniversary Dinner at Degustation

Degustation is the type of restaurant I would never seek out had I not received a generous birthday gift certificate from my aunt. The meal is more about the dining experience, both visual and gustatory, than eating a familiar, comforting dinner. Chairs are placed uncomfortably close together (elbows aren’t the only thing my neighbor and I bumped) in a large U that surrounds the open kitchen. It’s kind of like hibachi for grown-ups. While you won’t have to catch a severed shrimp tail in your gaping mouth or dodge onion volcano flames, you will get to observe chefs searing a fatty wedge of pork belly or carefully plating oxtail cannelloni. The dishes are all needlessly clever, minuscule, and expensive, costing an average of $12 for a fleeting taste. That said, I did enjoy the experience as well as every dish I ordered. Each was unusual and creative; I just wish I had written this post immediately after the meal because it’s difficult to accurately recall the intense combination of flavors.

Here’s what we ordered:

oxtail and potato cannelloni,

poached hamachi (with some sort of potatoes, haricot verts, and salty foam),

pork belly with a fried quail egg, greens, potato chip, and spicy parmesan broth (which Austin would not eat out of deference for a friend whose pet quail’s death has left an indelible scar),

crudo, sea bass marinated in gin and vermouth,

croquetas filled with ham and potato,

tortilla filled with oxtail and potato

I’d say my favorite dishes were the poached hamachi (the fish was cooked perfectly, salty and crisp on the outside and slightly pink on the inside), the tortilla filled with oxtail and potato (something surprising and spicy complimented the meaty interior), and the crudo. I’d recommend trying Degustation once if you have money to burn, but just once. Its frivolity makes it nearly impossible to classify as a weekly neighborhood joint.

A Splurge to Make You Regurge: Stuffed Burgers at Question Mark Cafe

After reading NYC Food Guy’s post on the stuffed burgers at the East Village’s Serbian haunt Question Mark Cafe, I was determined to get over there ASAP. Succulent beef patties stuffed with (that’s right..they’re INSIDE the burger, not on top) provolone cheese and bacon? Yes, please! With my post-work voracious appetite and two Serbian friends in tow (and Lammy, last but certainly not least) I trudged through the night’s angry winds to 1st Ave. and St. Marks for dinner.

I had a feeling that Question Mark’s atmosphere would be tacky in a way that only Eastern Europeans could manufacture and comprehend (multicolored strobe lights flashing incongruously to jarring techno beats, a depressing display of week-old pastries behind glass, a congregation of non-speaking Serbs typing furiously on their laptops) and indeed it was. A balmy cloud of oil-saturated food stagnates and smells dangerously close to skunk aftermath. Nevertheless, the boyish waiter-cashier-cook-in-one runs the restaurant singlehandedly and infuses the cafe’s shortcomings with an endearing sincerity.
The burgers, though not as plump as Black Iron’s or as juicy as Bonnie’s, set themselves apart as the most exotic I’ve tried in the city thus far. The centers could have been much rarer, but the oozing pockets of provolone scattered liberally throughout the meat helped to keep it moist. Flecks of bacon added salty, smoky flavor. Together, the urnebes (a Serbian spread of feta cheese crumbles and roasted red pepper) and the thin pita encasement cloaked the burger in its Eastern European uniqueness. Regrettably I downed the entire thing — and that sucker was half a pound!

Splurge: Lunch for One at Schnipper’s


The trepidation which thwarted my longstanding desire to sample Schnipper’s Quality Kitchen turned out to be quite justified today. After sifting through cream-based soups whose unblended contents yielded mealy clumps of flour, sandwiches with rubbery cold cuts, and (the last straw) sushi which may or may not have caused a bout of nausea earlier this week (to which I attribute my own foolishness for selecting buffet sushi on a Monday), I’ve decided to throw fiscal caution to the wind and pay more for quality lunches.

Schnipper’s even looks expensive — girls in patent leather heels and guys plugging away at their BlackBerrys compose the clientele, and it’s located inside the formidable (despite the climbable factor) New York Times building. I hear they’re famous for their Sloppy Joes, but I’m a sucker for tomatoes, bacon, and melted cheese and ordered the grilled four cheese with the aforementioned additions. I wanted to check out the milkshakes too, so I chose the salted caramel one.
I just about upped and poked the shrimpy cashier’s beady little eyes out when she told me I owed her $17 and change for the meal but soon realized that this would be counter-productive as she doesn’t set the prices. But really, $17.56? The GD milkshake alone cost $6.50. The salt in there better have been Fleur de sel or I’m calling shenanigans on the two-timing Schnipper brothers.
The sandwich was pretty tasty, though not as colorful as I had hoped. Plum tomatoes were promised by the menu, but what I got were some anemic, barely-pink beefsteak slices. My favorite part was the bread. It’s tough to make bread fried in butter and stuffed with cheese NOT greasy, but Schnipper’s achieved that challenging feat. It was super crispy and resilient, putting up a little fight each time I tore off a piece of the crust.
The milkshake looked nondescript, its pallid color lightly streaked with tan waves of caramel. Its flavor, however, had about as much personality as the jokers sitting next to me (one of whom took a bite of his salad and yelled “they never put enough dressing on this SHIT!!”). It was equal parts sweet and salty (like mah man), each sip revealing different facets of the ingredients. With the first sip I designated it overly salty, but after I drank it for a little (more like a lotta) bit longer it tasted like a saccharine vanilla milkshake. Good, but more of a 2 am calorie-fest splurge than a “I have to sit upright at a desk and be a respectful person for 4 more hours until happy hour” kinda splurge.
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