After seeing Danny’s photos of the Vietnamese fare at Pho Grand, I’ve been determined to head over there to try the cutely packaged summer rolls and piping hot noodle dishes.  The restaurant’s sloping roof and wide wood paneling resembled that of a ski chalet more than it did a Chinatown hole-in-the-wall. Though instead of bunny slope babes in tight snow pants (a fashion phenomenon I never understood), there are surly, deadpan waitresses whose no-bullshit service gets you in and out of the place in 20 minutes. I’ll take business over bimbo any day, especially when it comes to mealtime.

We started with an order of summer rolls, whose translucent encasements revealed pastel interiors of pink shrimp, green mint sprigs, and white rice and vermicelli noodles. A gritty, viscous peanut sauce accompanied the rolls for dipping. The appetizer tasted nutritious and refreshing; perfect for a hot day. Next up was the pho — I ordered an eye of round and brisket one, which lent both a mahogany hue and beefy flavor.  With the aid of a little soy, sriracha, and lemon juice, the broth grew more complex.  One slurp tasted slightly sweet; the next a thin, spicy gravy. A woven pile of noodles rested at the bottom, sopping up the array of flavors as well as rogue flakes of brisket.